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1. Carefully take all XC parts out of the box - you should have a frame with forks fitted, handlebars attached via brake cables, front and back wheels already fitted with quick-release skewers, a rear mudguard, a mini high-pressure pump, a tube of touch-up paint taped to the frame, Spinner fork manual taped to the forks, an envelope containing assembly instructions, receipt etc. and a box containing the toolkit. Make sure you have removed everything from the box before discarding it. 2. Remove all cardboard and plastic packing and unwrap the protective bubble-wrap with the help of scissors, being careful not to scratch the paintwork. 3. Stand the frame upright balancing on fork ends and using the hex spanner, remove the two hex bolts ('A' fig 1) to take off the handlebar clamp, insert handlebars in position (with the 'Tranx' logo upwards and forwards and replace clamp and tighten loosely. Make sure both brake cables are routed in front of the frame stem (as shown in fig 1). Do not tighten fully until handlebars are exactly centred with brake levers pointing forward and downwards at about 10-30° to suit your riding position. 4. If you are used to the UK brake handedness (ie front brake to right) you may want to swap the brake cables over on the handlebar brake levers. Line up the slots in the quick cable release nuts and lock nuts ('B' fig 1 - showing cable partly out) and pull out the cables. Tease out the cable nipples from each brake lever and replace the opposite way round. Leave adjusting nuts in 'fully in' position. Figure 1 ![]() 5. To attach the rear mudguard, undo and remove the nut, spacers, washer and bolt from the crosspiece on the rear forks ('C' in fig 2). Put the bolt through the bracket on the front lower end of the mudguard, then reassemble spacers, washer and nut onto crosspiece. Tighten nut making sure that the bracket is centred and straight. Remove the nuts, washer and bolts from the mudguard stays and attach the stays to the rear forks using the square hole at the top of the fork ends. Make sure mudguard is centred and straight then fully tighten. 6. Turn bike upside down and loosen the cable clamp nut ('A' fig 2) on the rear brake assembly. Pull the brake pads apart to allow insertion of the wheel spindle into the fork ends. When the wheel is properly located, tighten the quick-release skewer nut so that when the QR lever is pushed fully closed it is tight (it is about right if it takes the full force of two fingers to close it). Repeat the same exercise to fit the front wheel. Figure 2 ![]() 7. To adjust the brakes, squeeze the two rear brake arms together so the the brake pads are about 3mm away from the rim and tighten the brake cable clamp hex bolt. Make sure that the brake pads are approximately centred on the wheel rim WITHOUT TOUCHING THE TYRE. If necessary use the brake pad hex bolt ('B' fig 2) to adjust the pad positions. If the pads are not parallel to the surface of the rim, use a pair of pliers or mole grips to gently, but firmly twist the brake arm until they are. Repeat this procedure on the front wheel. Both brakes should fully engage when the brake levers are pulled through about half their movement. If necessary fine tune the clearance using the cable clamp hex bolt. Make sure the wheels spin freely when the brakes are 'off'. 8. Stand the bike on the kickstand and make sure the handlebars are in a comfortable position for you before full tightening the handlebar clamp. Tighten bell so that you can easily reach it with your right thumb. Pump tyres up hard (about 60psi or 4 bar). 9. Make a final check of the tightness of all nuts and bolts, QR levers and brake adjustment. Remove plastic protection from the footplate. CONGRATULATIONS, YOU HAVE NOW FINISHED ASSEMBLING YOUR XC KICKBIKE |
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